Venice, Italy
Inside the restored La Fenice, Venice’s legendary Opera House
Venice is a city unlike any other and life there is all about water. The city has a network of canals and winding pedestrian pathways and bridges instead of streets. This creates a unique and romantic storybook atmosphere, which is easy to get lost in — especially as a first time visitor. But leisurely wandering and getting lost is sort of the point here. Make sure to take a vaporetto ride (Venice’s version of public transport), or, if you can afford it, a private water taxi, for a different point of view on the city and its ancient Palazzos lining the Grand Canal. I would let the die-hard tourists take the over-priced gondola rides, but regardless of how you do it — make sure to get on a boat at some point.
GT Tip: One easy and pleasant way to do this is to have your accommodation pre-arrange a water taxi from the airport to the city for you. It’s not cheap, but worth the price and a cool way to arrive in the city which is about a 20 minute boat ride from the airport.
Venice’s beauty understandably attracts an overabundance of tourism during peak seasons, which has been a conundrum for the city and its residents for several years now — specifically the influx of cruise ships and corresponding day-trippers. We didn’t have too bad a time with this in late September, but during the day when in the tourist center, some of the narrow streets could and did become a pedestrian traffic jam. Once the day trippers leave, this is not an issue. And this is one of the key reasons we recommend not staying the middle of town; the piazza outside our apartment at Palazzo Cristo (see my full review below) felt quiet and residential even in the middle of the day.
GT Tip: All that said, don’t go during the rainy winter season unless you really want solitude and don’t mind walking through the Aqua Alta (high waters). If you do, be prepared with a good pair of rain boots.
*This was part of a 15-night trip to Italy. To see our complete Italy trip itinerary click here.
The Gimlet Traveler Rundown:
All ratings are based on our experience and are on a 5-star rating system (see Site Info for more details). For mapped locations and links to the places listed here (and more) visit Google Map at bottom of page.
Gimlets: ****
We had exquisite gimlets in an equally exquisite environment at the Bar at the Hotel Aman Venice (followed by a beautiful dinner, see below), so four stars for that, but generally Aperol Spritzes, G&T’s and of course, wine, are the order of the day. You can get a good martini around town, definitely at the fancier hotels (see map) and places like Harry’s Bar (very touristy) or Il Mercante Cocktail Bar (looks cool and is in a less touristy neighborhood), but you have to seek them out.Restaurants: ***
Our splurge dinner was at Arva Restaurant at the Hotel Aman, and between the gorgeous room, the attentive service, the artifully presented food, and the water taxi that picked us up from the hotel’s front door on the Grand Canal when we left — it was fabulous. If you happen to be in the Piazza Di San Marco around lunch time, stop at Cafe Florian; it’s a bit pricey due to the tourist-heavy location, but you can sit outside or in one of their small jewel-box like dining rooms and have a pleasant, casual, quick lunch. Our other picks in Venice were less thrilling but perfectly satisfying and there are lots of restaurants around in all price ranges.Sights: *****
The whole city is a sight in itself and unlike anything you’ve ever seen. Just getting lost is an adventure on its own (good luck using your GPS). Definitely visit the stunning and impressive Doge’s Palace (early in the morning before the crowds get there); La Fenice (Venice’s Opera House), which has risen from the ashes more than once, and it’s dazzling interior; and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, a renowned and carefully curated modern art collection. And if the Biennale is in town — try to see at least some of it. Though it can be overwhelming, it’s worth the effort. Be sure to book ahead.Shopping: ***
Pick up some murano glass (if that’s your thing — we bought a couple of Christmas ornaments), or a venetian carnival mask (definitely not our thing). There is an upscale (i.e. not cheap), architecturally interesting department store adjacent to the Rialto Bridge called T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, which has a cafe in the four-story open atrium and a rooftop viewing deck with nice views of the city. Otherwise you will come across some interesting local-artisan/artist shops throughout the city; we brought home a small, simple etching of a venetian palazzo painted in watercolor.
Review of Palazzo Cristo Rating: *****
We were in the “majestic one bedroom” at Palazzo Cristo. Stunning apartment in a great, quiet and scenic location just outside of the craziness of the tourist center but close enough to everything. Decor/furnishings beautiful, great amenities, very posh and stylish, beautiful bathroom, and everything as described in the listings. Renovation gorgeously done and Anna was a great help in planning and booking. Expensive, but worth it if you can afford the splurge. They have smaller and larger apartments in the same building.
Date of stay: September 2019
Other Hotel Choices:
• We almost stayed at the classy Cima Rosa B&B, also in a quiet section of town, and much more reasonably priced (well, for Venice anyway). But we decided to splurge on this stay and save money elsewhere.
• The new Il Palazzo Experimental, by The Experimental Cocktail Club Group in a stylishly redone Palazzo in quiet Dorsoduro, has modern rooms, an authentic Italian restaurant (Adriatica) and a marble-and-mirrors branch of the Experimental Cocktail Club (naturally) for great cocktails. Definitely worth a look and made the Conde Nast Hot List for 2020.
Below is a map of hotels, restaurants, bars, shopping and sights found during our research. We didn’t have time to visit all of them during our trip, but all were of interest. Click on the icon at top left of the map to view the legend. Or you can click on the full-screen icon at top right to expand, which will also bring up the legend.
