Mexico City, Mexico
updated february 8 2024
Palacio Des Bellas Artes
I was looking for a short getaway for David’s 50th Birthday. There were parameters: I wanted a five-day destination (because of our work schedules), with airfare that wasn’t exorbitant (i.e. not Europe in the spring), but that still felt special and different. Mexico City, full of culture, buzzy restaurants and all within budget was a perfect choice.
Normally, we wouldn’t stay at The Four Seasons Hotel. We likely couldn’t (or wouldn't) afford it in their other locations. Also, we would usually choose something smaller and more local (and I did consider other hotels). I wanted a hotel that was central, service-oriented, secure, and that had a spa and an outdoor pool. The Four Season Hotel hit all the right notes (see my full review at bottom). And even more: they helped me plan a special, private, birthday dinner for my husband that was phenomenally romantic. They worked with me weeks in advance, helping me choose everything from the menu to the wines.
The sprawling city has plenty to do and see (as noted in our run-down below). You can go to lots of museums (if that is your thing; some are worth visiting just for the architecture alone), wander through beautiful parks or the trendy/cool neighborhoods of Roma Norte and Condesa, go shopping in fancy Polanco and then maybe have a happy hour cocktail at one of the city’s many cocktail bars. And there’s no shortage of great restaurants, including some of the world’s finest modern haute cuisine. As you might expect, we stayed less fancy on the menu front, but the restaurants we chose still had delicious food and lovely ambiance.
Make sure to leave time for a day trip out to the Teotihuacan Pyramids. It’s cool and they’re pretty awesomely huge — especially the tallest. And a long climb, if you choose to make it (I did, but I was pressured!). Trust me, it’s worth it once you get to the top of the big one. Just bring plenty of water. (Ed. note: As of 2023, tourists are no longer allowed to climb the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon at Teotihuacan as the enormous numbers were risking damage to the site - still worth a visit to see their awesomeness in person regardless!)
GT Tip: Mexico City is often said to still have a bit of a crime problem in certain outlying neighborhoods, so don’t wander into iffy neighborhoods and always be aware of your surroundings (which goes without saying anywhere you travel). That said, we (and other friends who have gone recently) never felt unsafe during our visit! And do use Uber, which is super-cheap. On a different note, but also a warning: the subways, while fast and efficient are NOT air conditioned. We tried and fried.
The Gimlet Traveler Rundown:
All ratings are based on our experience and are on a 5-star rating system (see Site Info for more details). For mapped locations and links to the places listed here (and more) visit Google Map at bottom of page.
Gimlets: *****
Up there with the best of them. Not only at our hotel bar (Fifty Mils), and at the King Cole Bar at the St. Regis up the block, but we were also able to get a well-made gimlet at most every nice restaurant we visited. There are plenty of cocktail bars as well and some that are almost an equal combo of cocktail bar and supper club. Licorera Limantour is one of the more popular cocktail places (with two locations). It has very talented mixologists mixing unusual cocktails. We ate at a very cool dimly-lit subterranean place called Puebla 109 that was known for interesting cocktails and yummy food but is now, evidently, closed. We had a nice stop at the Rooftop bar at The Downtown Hotel — a trendy hotel located in a historic building downtown (this was also a second choice hotel). Another rooftop bar is at the Hotel Condesa. We didn’t visit, but it’s known to be buzzy late into the evening (which was one reason it didn’t make it onto our hotel list). There are a number of LGBT+ clubs (Kinky and Papi, to name two that we stopped by LOL). And as with most clubs, they start late — and don’t expect fancy drinks.Restaurants: *****
Mexico City is home to at least a couple of the world’s best restaurants (Pujol, and Quintonil for example). As mentioned elsewhere, we may have skipped those due to things like “wild mushroom papadzul with kimchi and egg yolk” on the menu or they serve things that involve ants or grasshoppers. But they are world-class and very fancy, so…if you’re a foodie, check them out. That said, we ate at some very lovely restaurants that I would highly recommend: Casa Virginia, Rosetta, and Pueblo 109 (now closed) among them. We skipped our highly sought-after reservation at Maximo Bistrot, which was (and remains) a very popular place with both locals and tourists. It has a casual ambiance and reputedly excellent food. We also ate at Azul Historico, located in the bustling atrium of the Shops at Downtown (also adjacent to The Downtown Hotel). The ambiance was buzzy and fun, but the food nothing memorable. If you are in the Roma Norte neighborhood, stop by the modern Mercado Roma Food Hall for lunch, or a drink, or ice cream. And for a taste of old school, the ornate La Opera Restaurant (close to La Palacio de Bellas Artes) is from the 19th century. It even has a bullet hole in the ceiling — reportedly the work of Pancho Villa. Stop by for a meal or a shot of tequila at the bar. Oh, and there are bull testicles available on the menu. As you can imagine — we did not partake!Sights: *****
There are plenty of sights to see in Mexico City. Just some: The majestic Metropolitan Cathedral, Templo Mayor Museum (Aztec Ruins) and the National Palace (with awesome Diego Rivera Murals) on the Zocalo (which is the huge plaza at the heart of the historic district). Try to see a show or concert at the beautiful Palacio De Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts), with a gorgeous art deco lobby and a Tiffany Glass show curtain and dome inside the auditorium. We went to see the famed (and a bit touristic) Ballet Folklorico De Mexico. We were pleasantly surprised! While the production values were generally middling, the dancing and costumes were pretty great. And it was worth it to see the inside of the theater. Definitely spend an afternoon at the enormous Chapultapec Park, and climb up to see the Chapultapec Castle atop the park. We only saw the exteriors of the Anthropology Museum and the Soumaya Art Museum, but both are worth visiting for the architectural design alone. Definitely take a day trip to the Teotihuacan Pyramids. It’s about an hour’s drive outside the city and pretty awesome, especially if you’re willing to make the climb (as you’re probably aware, I’m not a big fan of heights, but David eventually coaxed me to the top*) (*Ed. note: As of 2023, tourists are no longer allowed to climb the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon at Teotihuacan as the enormous numbers were risking damage to the site - still worth a visit to see their awesomeness in person regardless!) . Favorite neighborhoods: Roma, Roma Norte, Condesa, and Polanco. All pretty, upscale, and with nice shopping, restaurants, bars. We had to skip the Frida Kahlo Museum because the line was unexpectedly way too long (i.e. we hadn’t planned ahead). So, if you’re interested — plan accordingly.Shopping: *****
Lots of shopping to be done. Polanco is the fancy shopping area with plenty of nice shops to chose from (including a branch of the swanky department store El Palacio de Hierro), and Roma Norte and Condesa have many boutiques to stumble across, but also try to get out to El Bazaar Sabado (Saturday Bazaar) at Plaza San Jacinto in San Angel. It’s 20 minutes or so outside the city in a pretty setting and is loaded with local crafts, folk art, jewelry, and such. We bought a few things for us and others here. Also, the Shops at Downtown has some trendy shopping and dining. It is adjacent to the Downtown Hotel (with its rooftop bar).
Review of Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City Rating: *****
The Four Seasons Mexico City is all one would expect from this brand — specifically the fabulous service. I worked extensively for months in advance planning our trip to Mexico City, and the concierge team (specifically Julio who was our initial contact) at the Four Seasons was quick to reply to all of my questions and provided fast and reliable assistance with ground transport, dinner reservations and planning for day trips (i.e. the pyramids) — not to mention anything we needed help with on the fly during our stay. Also, we have to thank guest relations manager Natalia — who helped coordinate and plan a private 50th birthday dinner for my husband on a terrace overlooking their beautiful courtyard. Everyone was really lovely, friendly and solicitous without being intrusive.
The hotel is built around a beautifully landscaped courtyard, and it is quite special in a busy, crowded city like this; a quiet, relaxing place to come back to at the end of a day of sightseeing and shopping. Try to get a room facing the courtyard if available. They are currently finishing up a two year renovation, which does affect the quiet of the courtyard during the day, but that should be finished within a month or so. (GT note: Since our visit, the final unfinished piece, Zanaya Restaurant, has opened and looks lovely.) Rooms have been redone in a simple and modern style — still quite elegant and very spacious. The Fifty Mils bar — also new — is a nice place for a drink, and we enjoyed our courtyard breakfast every morning. Lastly, very few downtown Mexico City hotels have an outdoor pool. The Four Seasons has a small, but lovely and quiet one adjacent to their spa and fitness center. This was a big plus for us, as we were able to squeeze in a few hours of sun time while we were there.
While the location of the Four Seasons is perhaps more convenient for business — and there were other neighborhoods we preferred (Roma & Roma Norte in particular with tons of restaurants and bars) — it was convenient enough to get around either with Uber (very cheap!) or their own cars, which are always available, if a tiny bit more expensive. All in all, a very secure and lovely place to stay.
Date of stay: April 2016
Room tip: High floor facing the courtyard.
Other Hotel Choices:
•Las Alcobas — One of the grandparents of the Mexico City bougie-boutique hotels, still posh and neutral-modern, with well known restaurant Andol - in Polanco.
•Casa Polanco — new 2023 - a subdued and classy boutique hotel in the swanky Polanco district facing leafy Lincoln Park. Cute Verandah Restaurant, and while there isn’t an official bar or restaurant - there a couple of different locations where you can have a cocktail.
•The Alest — new 2023 - Another small boutique hotel in Polanco . This one is a little sparklier - with 45 Restaurant seving haute Mexican cuisine, and the Alest Bar 45 serving cocktails.
•Downtown Mexico Hotel — Cute boutique hotel off of Plaza El Zocalo, in historic building with rooftop pool & bar, restaurant, and shops downstairs. In the historic center/downtown.
•St. Regis — Hi-rise luxury hotel just down the block from the Four Seasons, pool is indoor.
•Hippodrome Hotel — small boutique hotel across from a park in leafy Condesa was new and nice at time of our visit, but they do not have a restaurant or bar.
Below is a map of hotels, restaurants, bars, shopping and sights found during our research. We didn’t have time to visit all of them during our trip, but all were of interest. Click on the icon at top left of the map to view the legend. Or you can click on the full-screen icon at top right to expand, which will also bring up the legend.
